It was far but clearly not far enough for endless sand dunes - whether the very edge of the Sahara can still be considered as Sahara as advertised is questionable. By the third overnight stay at a desert, riding a camel, sleeping outside beneath the starry sky, listening to music around the bonfire, waking up for the sunrise were no longer all that exciting but this time 1) Berbers are (clearly) not Bedouins; 2) wind did not bring as much sand at the red centre; 3) they danced, they played drums, and they sang to cover up the sound of quarrel; and 4) the camel thought we should pay a visit to the local hospital.