The idea of going to Byblos emerged during one of the pre-trip Skype chats, but got very firmly planted as a seed after an image search, a bit like Sucre back then. Certainly with a lot of history but also proved to be a great place to chill... though sometimes duty calls, and you get what you can get out of it.
travel notes from each of the cities, towns and places I have visited.
- total first impressions (473)
Showing posts with label MIDDLE EAST. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MIDDLE EAST. Show all posts
Beirut
Although the act which led us to candlelight moments and much more with a real and very warm Lebanese family was disputed by many retrospectively, it would not have been the same if we were at the Crowne Plaza Hotel (as per card) or the New Talal’s House (as per LP).
We learnt simple Arabic, ate very tasty home-made food, got offered Arak, tried street snacks, had “doudou”s amongst others, got the real and consistent gentlemen treatment, admired the perfection of the Downtown and the contrast with the war-damaged buildings, heard the old man shouting "Beirrrrut!", felt Hariri's presence in the architecture and beyond, sat outside in the sun at a cafĂ© at Hamra and countless other places, admired RaouchĂ©, checked out shiny Gemmayze, and ended up happily ever after at Lancelot more than once. The contrast was vast; Beirut was very different yet familiar with all the fast cars and imaginable chains, past overlapping present and the consequential aspiration, ego and pride.
The ending caused by mere co-incidence became the tale but those 16 hours were only a very small part of it all. Even then so watching the live stream of the Patriarch with “Dory”, the blindfold and confiscation, the repetitive questions about names and religion, the photos and prints, the pages of Arabic handwriting, the cell and the “teeea”, and the final race for searching for a flight to fly out were memorable, and more than worth it.
Palmyra
"Look at this - why do people ask what is there to see in Syria?"
The stopover at the charming Baghdad Cafe 66 with a Bedouin who graduated in French Literature was just the start of the many conversations; with one of the scattered independent sellers who strongly advised against getting married while patting on his big belly thanks to his wife's cooking, with the young jewellery-sellers who offered 100 million camels, with the guardians of the citadel and finding out how you are expected to have at least 500,000SYP before you can ask a Bedouin lady for her hand. On the way back the very persistent driver tried to work his scheme, while I contemplated the bike ride downhill which never happened.
Seidnayya
The dusk, the countyard of the monastry and admiring the rainbow-coloured neons lights inside and outside buses and taxies, along with the portrait of the president on the way back in the hectic traffic with merely symbolic lanes.
Maaloula
Built into the mountain, Maaloula has one of the oldest surviving monasteries in Syria, Mar Sarkis Monastery, with elements going back to the 5th century Byzantine period. After the Lord's Prayer was said in Arabic, we found the Mar Thecla Monastery which was hidden between the rocks, before accepting the offer of (guess what) yet another cup of tea next to the convent.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)