"Look at this - why do people ask what is there to see in Syria?"
The stopover at the charming Baghdad Cafe 66 with a Bedouin who graduated in French Literature was just the start of the many conversations; with one of the scattered independent sellers who strongly advised against getting married while patting on his big belly thanks to his wife's cooking, with the young jewellery-sellers who offered 100 million camels, with the guardians of the citadel and finding out how you are expected to have at least 500,000SYP before you can ask a Bedouin lady for her hand. On the way back the very persistent driver tried to work his scheme, while I contemplated the bike ride downhill which never happened.
